Coq au Vin; the Chocolate Connection

I have been making Coq au Vin for years.  It’s always been a delicious family favorite but never quite achieved the same wonderful glossy, rich sauce of the bistro.

This was brought home once more the last time we were in Paris.  At  Chez René we had the best Coq au Vin ever created by human hands; but how did they get the sauce so decadently rich?  It glistened.  It was so dark it was almost black; so intensely flavorful it defied description.  

The quest was on.  The first conclusion was that the sauce must be based on one of those slow reductions, you know the kind: reduce 5 quarts of flavorful beef stock down to a teaspoon then thicken with butter.  On further investigation that fell to the wayside.  The only liquid in Coq au Vin is the Vin.

Then I ran across a recipe in my ‘Saveur Cooks Authentic French’ that called for cocoa powder. Could this be it?  Could I have discovered the ancient secret of the Bistro?  Should I share this with the world?  Upon reflection I decided it was my duty to share this incredible piece of cooking magic, since I am the only person in the world that owns this cookbook.

Naturally I modified it a bit,  Natural arrogance?  Inability to follow the rules?  Irresistible urge to tinker?  All of the above, I’m afraid.  Here it is.  

Chicken in red wine. Traditionally this would use a cock (rooster) and cook for several hours (as the coq would tend to be a tough old bird – but full of flavor).

You can use a whole, cut-up chicken, (broiler-fryer) or, do what I did, use skinless breasts and thighs. Without the skin the flavors get deeper into the meat and we eliminate a lot of the fat.

Use a full-bodied Burgundy or Cote de Rhone (or equivalent) for this. Not expensive, but drinkable.

The recipe, Coq au Vin, has been updated, nutrition information added, and re-posted here: Coq au Vin.

Of course there are leftovers…..

Coq au Vin with Pasta, leftovers

Just reheat and toss with some cooked pasta.

I resisted the urge to just heat the sauce and eat it with a spoon….but only just….

How does the cocoa work this magic, transforming a merely good sauce to one fit for the gods?

Are we mere mortals meant to know?  Who cares, it works.  It’s sooo good it deserves my D.O. award!  (digestive org*sm).


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11 thoughts on “Coq au Vin; the Chocolate Connection”

  1. Whoa. Shocker. I would NOT have thought chocolate was the key to coq au vin. I feel so educated now that I know the secret to this French classic.

  2. I feel like making one of my infamous bad puns like calling it cocao-vin!
    What doesn’t taste better with chocolate?
    I made Ina Garten’s coq-au-vin once. It took two hours of work and my husband totally didn’t aprreciate it. Maybe he’d like it more if there were chocolate involved!

  3. I really will try this next time – I love Coq au Vin when it is made properly and all the flavors mesh beautifully. One thing you might try next time is leaving on the skins but making it ahead, refrigerating and skimming the fat when it congeals. That allows you to get all the flavor from the chicken skin (which is considerable) without eating all the fat.

  4. Joanne, I wouldn’t have guessed it either – but, there are the Mexican mole sauces that use choclate, so it’s not too weird!
    Ina, it really adds they ‘je ne sais quoi’
    Rachel, this is ever so much easier…. 2 HOURS!?!?
    Howard, no, but I do have to slap mon mari’s hands frequently!
    Mimi, you’re welcome…. flavor’s rich too :-))
    Charlotte – perfect for those old hens!
    Penny, let me know how youn like it!
    Zoomie, great idea… I never thought of that. I’ll try it! (I know you’re right about the skins)

  5. I’ve made mole sauce before (to die for) – but never thought of using in this dish. Many thanks again Katie for opening our eyes up to the wonders of what we can make so simply in our kitchen (I have a big problem with eating out – because I know I can make food taste just as good (or better).

  6. Anna, mole sauce is on my list to try – any recipes? As to eating out – we’re much the same: why bother?

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